A Chef For All Seasons

Roz Denny & Gordon Ramsay

Editions

Review

Forget the temper tantrums and the Battle of the Béarnaise over Delia et al… Can Ramsay deliver, in reasonable pastiche, the signature style from his innovative and inspiring restaurants, with recipes which work and are easy to follow in domestic kitchens?

In four chapters relating to the seasons, our lad [This must be something to do with Glasgow. – Ed.] makes the conventional but valid plea for using fresh ingredients at their native peak, but puts his stamp on familiar elements by dint of ingenious associations.

Last weekend I regaled my dinner guests with an appropriately autumnal selection of his dishes: pumpkin and pancetta risotto, followed by sweetbreads with shallot and mushroom marmalade and topped off with a pear and frangipane flan, to considerable acclaim and not a little astonishment. [Although you say so yourself.]

I think the man is the best thing since sliced ceps on langoustines with a mustard dressing (cf. page 126). - review by Stewart Grimshaw